Munich — the fox and the hen

Finally, the first pair of shoes on my new-and-improved bespoke last is ready for delivery. I am quite satisfied with the outcome. Especially the sole is nothing short of spectacular (in a very modest, non-Paolo-ian way, of course...). I am starting to really appreciate the qualities of suede (this one is fox colored), especially for travel purposes. Next on the list are a pair of chelsea boots in dark brown suede and a pair of burgundy whole cuts in a hatch grain calf leather as well as some modified penny loafers. And then, there is still a pair of green cordovan hides waiting for me...

 

A very special capsule collection

Last week I was invited to have a first look at a very special capsule collection. Seisser & Cie., a traditional Munich-based brand some of our readers might know from my articles over at stilmagazin.com  teamed up with Loden-Frey, one of Munich's finest department stores to create small line of luxury jackets in a typical Bavarian style. The idea was to take the old and dusty bits out of this regional dress and make it young and relevant again by using only the best materials and construction. The result of this effort is a collection of three models, all of which are made from handwoven linen with handprinted soft cotton linings. Some of the less typical production steps (at least for a ready-to-wear garment) include an individually hand-dressed and hand-finished collar as well as shanked buffalo horn buttons. In order to make the jackets soft and comfortable, they have been made with minimal interior structure. All the materials as well as the finished jackets have been washed several times and ironed only lightly for a relaxed look. The only let-down for me are the machine-sewn buttonholes, but that is a personal thing. All pieces shown here are exclusive to Loden-Frey and made up in very limited quantities. It may be a bit early to think about your outfit for this year's Octoberfest, but these jackets would definitely not make you look out of place there — interested readers, you better stop by soon!

Vintage finds

The other day, while picking up some recent orders from my shirtmaker (some of which make the background for the piece I want to tell you about in these photos), I discovered an old shirt which was never picked up by the client. The shirt was made in 1968 when the store was still named after the two original founders. It is a simple sport shirt with button-down (also called "polo") collar and single button barrel cuffs. The shirt has some features which make it recognizable as a late sixties to early seventies piece of clothing such as a relatively high collar band and a very slim cut (without using back darts by the way). But apart from these minor details, the shirt could have been made today. From the way the cuffs and collar are attached to the cut of the sleeve to the special single needle stitching starting wide at the upper shoulder and narrowing towards the armpit and side seam the construction hasn't changed a bit — even the supplier of the thick and durable oxford cloth for this shirt is the same as today! In times of time saving and thus cost cutting measures in fashion production, this is truly good news to me. This personal satisfaction aside, I am always thrilled when I get the chance to have an in-depth look at vintage pieces of clothing, be it an old tie, shirt, suit or a pair of shoes.
Since I have not had a sport collar made by this shirtmaker, I had one modeled after the old shirt's collar for my next order. We will see how it turns out soon.

Minimalistic try-on shoes

I was at my shoemaker the other day for a fitting on my latest shoe project which will be ready by the end of march. The shoes are going to be in a plain whole cut design from soft suede in a reddish brown (see the shoe in my last picture). Wholecut shoes typically come in one of two variants: With (finished either with a "dog's tooth" or an additional strap of leather to protect the seam) or without a seam at the back. I opted for a design with a seam for one simple reason: durability. A seam at the back makes the shoe less prone to odd deformation. Also, in case of a refurbish, the lasting process is a bit easier.

The soles will be relatively thin and finished with a natural edge-trim. They will also have a step between the waist and the heel plus a special heel design called the "Thomas heel" which is longer on the inside than it is on the outside, with the two sides joined by a wave line.

Much to drink you still have, young Padawan

More wine (including one of the best non-champagne sparkling wines around), accompanied by yet another plate of unremarkable pasta. Oh well, even poor students need to eat and drink from time to time.

Basic and unremarkable

And now for something a little different...

Friends of the Neapolitan tailoring tradition be warned: These photos may contain the exact opposite of your viewing habits. In the first picture, you can see a traditional Austrian jacket with nehru collar and bellows pockets. The last one shows a bolt of silk lining which is commonly used in these jackets. In between is my version of a contemporary women's blazer which I designed for my girlfriend. If everything goes well, it will turn out rather sharp and Tom Ford-esque with full-cutaway quarters, narrow skirt, shirred shoulders and rounded back hem. It should be ready for a first fitting in march.

Wine, Vibe and Gesang

The other night, I was drinking one of my current favorite wines. Guess what: A white. Guess what again: A Riesling!

Gernot Kollmann, known to the wine geek as former winemaker for Roman Niewodniczanski's Van Volxem (another one of my favorites), has revived a once-famous estate called Immich-Batterieberg in the Mosel Region. The estate's few hectares are planted with Riesling — and Riesling only. The name originates from the unusual way the main vineyard was brought to life: Batterieberg (German for "cannon hill") was man-built using canon fire in order to achieve optimal exposition.

Kollmann's wines are razor-sharp, although not analytically dry. Prominent but ripe acid builds the backbone of the 2010 "C.A.I."(a tribute to the original founder, Carl August Immich) in my glass, which is accompanied by lemon, lime and very clear slate minerality. A real pleasure to drink, especially at 10 % vol.!

By the way, you can get an idea of Gernot Kollmann's wines at a tasting event in Munich called WineVibes. Klick the link for more information and tickets.

Yes, we are well...

Despite the, err, not so troublesome update cycles at the moment, we are pleased to report that we are well and busy as ever. Paolo is in Naples (again!), bossing around some of his latest, hand-sewing finds while Yours Truly is playing the attentive student. In between, we are enjoying healthy snacks like the one pictured — Austrian Faschingskrapfen.

If I were to wear glasses...

... they would have to look something like this model from Lunor. Classic elegance, engineered with cutting-edge technology. This specific piece is made of italian cellulose acetate, drum-polished for several days (most manufacturers have their frames polished only for two to three hours in order to save time and money) and assembled by hand in Germany. Lunor also made Steve Job's famous round, non-frame glasses.