Wednesday, February 29, 2012
Sunday, February 26, 2012
Napoli - Bespoke corduroy pants
That post comes a little belated, but anyway....
Bespoke corduroy sport pants with "western style" pocket flaps and "secret cash pocket".
The latter was an invention that came into fashion with the fiscal reforms of Mario Monti.
Bespoke corduroy sport pants with "western style" pocket flaps and "secret cash pocket".
The latter was an invention that came into fashion with the fiscal reforms of Mario Monti.
Thursday, February 23, 2012
Firenze - Antonio Mannina: 60s or not?
The overcoat's a relatively new bespoke number, but somewhat resembles me a little of what I have seen in many tailoring magazines from the 60s.
Despite the "fake" Martingala and the turn ups on the sleeves it seems to come without any bells and whistles, typical of the Florentine bespoke tailors from who Antonio gets his stuff from.
A nice, not pictured detail is the lining in rarely seen silk lining in an accordingly substantial weight to go well with overcoating materials.
Despite the "fake" Martingala and the turn ups on the sleeves it seems to come without any bells and whistles, typical of the Florentine bespoke tailors from who Antonio gets his stuff from.
A nice, not pictured detail is the lining in rarely seen silk lining in an accordingly substantial weight to go well with overcoating materials.
Monday, February 20, 2012
Sunday, February 12, 2012
Firenze by night - Palazzo Strozzi
Fun illumination in the court of the Strozzi Renaissance palace in Florence.
Saturday, February 11, 2012
Napoli - Shirts: Next level handwork II
More details of the bespoke shirt I was talking about on Wednesday.
These pictures show the more interesting, externally almost invisible part of the handwork.
The first photo shows the entirely hand folded bottom edge of the shirt, the second where the cuffs are attached to the sleeves from the outside with the third photo showing the same from the inside.
The same tiny handstitching like for the cuff attachement is also used to sew on the collar with maximum stability that can be given to a handstitch.
The other pictures show the attachement of the two pieces the cuffs are made of (not easy to spot), the long side seams on the shirt's body and on the the sleeves which are stitched on one row with a single needle machine and on the other by hand to combine longevivity with the beauty of a handstich (some say the handstitch here adds flexibility, although I rather see the handworks benefits here rather on an the aestehtic side, the side seams certainly look more flat and dont tend to bunch up with time like on many machine sewn double-rows on the long side seams).
These pictures show the more interesting, externally almost invisible part of the handwork.
The first photo shows the entirely hand folded bottom edge of the shirt, the second where the cuffs are attached to the sleeves from the outside with the third photo showing the same from the inside.
The same tiny handstitching like for the cuff attachement is also used to sew on the collar with maximum stability that can be given to a handstitch.
The other pictures show the attachement of the two pieces the cuffs are made of (not easy to spot), the long side seams on the shirt's body and on the the sleeves which are stitched on one row with a single needle machine and on the other by hand to combine longevivity with the beauty of a handstich (some say the handstitch here adds flexibility, although I rather see the handworks benefits here rather on an the aestehtic side, the side seams certainly look more flat and dont tend to bunch up with time like on many machine sewn double-rows on the long side seams).
Friday, February 10, 2012
Firenze - Antonio Mannina: Double face suit + Icer jacket
My friend Antonio from Florence in a sportive combination when picking me up for some more coffee.
The suit is made from a heavy, real double face fabric with a third weft connecting both sides, with the other side being grey herringbone.
The fabric falls extremeley nicely, so I took some extra "action" pics.
The jacket is this pure cashmere "Icer" thing that Loro Piana made for some team at the winter Olympics I dont know when....
So sports all the way.
The view shows the Ponte Vecchio and the Uffici from south of the Arno river in Florence.
The suit is made from a heavy, real double face fabric with a third weft connecting both sides, with the other side being grey herringbone.
The fabric falls extremeley nicely, so I took some extra "action" pics.
The jacket is this pure cashmere "Icer" thing that Loro Piana made for some team at the winter Olympics I dont know when....
So sports all the way.
The view shows the Ponte Vecchio and the Uffici from south of the Arno river in Florence.
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